9/27/2023 0 Comments Nakamichi tapedeckThe three-head design also permits immediate comparisons between the incoming signal and the recorded result. The Dragon’s record and playback heads are made of Crystalloy, and they are entirely separate units whose gap widths (3.5 and 0.6 micrometers, respectively) are optimized for their different functions. It is the company’s first recorder to feature auto-reverse playback and the first from any manufacturer with continuous automatic playback-head azimuth alignment. If it comes to life then a whole lot of stop/play cycles, followed by regular usage, might keep it going for a while.The Dragon is the first Nakamichi cassette deck to be given a name rather than a model number, and if the intent was to suggest an awe-inspiring creation, the technological innovations it embodies make “Dragon” a wonderfully apt designation. One need be quite dedicated to one's cassette deck to attempt repair of this, but, I'd say give the cam a push with a none conductive probe whilst pushing play a few times and see what gives. Some have had luck with using this motor as replacement, but it must fit the existing mu-metal sleeve (or a DIY alternative) else it magnetize the heads/tape as it runs. If that doesn't get it going reliably, then it is likely to require a rebuild job (unreliable), as exact replacement motors appear to be no longer available. As this motor doesn't turn very far before it shuts itself off, the only way to give it the kind of workout suggested by Werner for the tape drive motor(s) is to dismount the motor, remove the cam wheel and apply an external power source, letting it run for a good hour in either direction. You may get lucky with the 'push start' suggestion in the YouTube comment, however, despite what people claim online, there are no access holes in the motor to simply spray contact cleaner in. ![]() This is the motor that is positioned at 90º to the main drive motors and uses a worm gear to drive a cam mechanism, the latter controlling the electric contacts that switch this motor as it shifts the head plate into and out of play/rec, FF/REW and stop positions. ![]() If the op's deck is exhibiting the same symptoms as in the YouTube video in post #9 then it is the 'control motor'. Hopefully, it isn't the un-advertised third 'control motor' as this is what drives the head base plate via a worm gear, a PITA to repair using un-obtanium parts. An easy way to test for this is by cleaning the belt and pulley/flywheel running surfaces in situ and attempt PB.Īlternatively, or in addition to a failing belt, the pinch roller may not be exerting enough pressure (an easy adjustment with the transport removed). If your FF/REW were flakey then the most likely cause is the rubber rim of the nylon idler wheel needs replacing (a suitably sized O-ring works a treat).Īs it is PB 'engage but fail' then the most likely cause is the rubber belt that drives the flywheel/capstan. ![]() Click to expand.Yes, this is the standard 2-motor transport where the 'play' drive is via the capstan motor (via belt drive to a flywheel, the forward extending shaft of which is the capstan) and FF/REW are via a smaller motor positioned between the two drive reels and engaging an idler wheel that alternates between driving the L or R reels.
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